As for today, I got to the beach around 10 and the shore break was really nice. If I could do wraps it would have been really amazing. It's dorkish but for the longest time I didn't even throw the board down because I was trying to pick up a pattern of the waves and work off that...didn't get too far. I did try things I've never tried before, such as getting on the board one foot a time, start running from further up the beach, and pumping. Eventually, I made it out the waves that I've been trying to get out to for the longest time. I attempted to do a wrap going head on to the wave and the furthest I got was hitting the top of the wave and trying to turn it back around, only my body would turn and my board didn't follow. suggestions?
After eating the best Mexican food I've ever had in all my life we went back to the beach. It was a lot more choppier, I guess, so trying to go head on towards the wave wasn't happening. Instead, I threw the board at like a 45 degree angle to the right and when I got out to a good wave try to do bust a wrap on that (mind you I have no clue what I'm doing as I'm attempting this) and it was the wierdest thing. I came onto the wave "frontside" and tried turning facing the ocean so it was a killer on my back. Anyhow, I ate so much shit trying to do that...SO WORTH IT!
falling is possibly the best part of skimming, agree?
But, I'm heading out again first thing tomorrow morning, I think that's when high tide is...
Have a great summer, everyone