i got out of work early and hit the beach around 4:30. the tide was all crap and there was hardly any room to skim. after eating shit several times and rolling my big toe under my foot, i decided it would be best to wait for the tide to go out. so i went skating around town and actually found a slightly used but good deck at a spot. after an hour i went back and the conditions weren't too shabby. i'm still a beginner and have yet unlocked the secret to riding waves. we don't have very good shorebreak down here and my board is complete crap. excuses,excuses. i try to work on speed and doing skateboarding type trix. powerslides,laybacks,shuvits,riding fakie,etc. i was able to learn how to turn into a wave and do a few wraps. so i guess i'm progressing. but i really want to learn to launch as high on a wave as i can on a skateboard. a fun day but my foot is still bruised. until next weekend.